A Kelly Post: One minute you're stuck in Prince Rupert due to the flood and the next you're out in the middle of pristine wilderness living on a floating house, staring at snowcapped mountains and going on grizzly tours every day!! We seriously couldn't believe it. I think Fiona's famous quote was - "I'm jealous of myself!".
The Khutzeymateen is a designated Grizzly Bear Sanctuary in a beautiful inlet near Prince Rupert. Apparently about 50 to 60 bears live in the area and no humans are allowed to set foot on shore. Most of the bear viewing goes on from boats as the bears hang out on the shore in Summer feeding on mussells, sedge grass, salmon etc. Where we were was just outside the Sanctuary border and the only dwelling anywhere around.
We stayed for free, eating like Kings and having a ball in exchange for helping this great guy Greg (owns the house, business, runs the tours) out with some of his chores. We helped chop wood, Josh made a little shed for his gas containers, we painted a boat's trim, cleaned up bits and pieces and generally didn't work too hard, but hard enough to feel satisfied at the end of the day to have some cocktails and beers, maybe a sauna and some more fresh seafood (which included fresh spring salmon, fresh prawns, fresh trout etc all caught out in the inlet we were staying in.
You'd think it would be solitary out here in the middle of nowhere but it was really quite bustling. For a man who lives out in the middle of nowhere he certainly likes his social life. We were visited and had dinner with some guys working on a prawn trawler, a fishing trip, the local rangers and because tours come out here most days to look at the bears there was always new people to have a chat with and lots of sea otters, seals and bald eagles to keep us entertained.
We came about this through a number of ways.. our couple of days stranded in Prince Rupert were hilarious. We made heaps of new random friends and in those 4 days met Greg's sister, and his two nephews all in separate incidents who suggested he might have some work for us. Next minute we'd organised to meet up with him when he next came into town and after a massive night at the Sea Fest we were off on his boat to his little palace on the water.
He's built it himself. It's all made of wood but instead of a roof it's plastic sheeting so you can see outside everywhere that you are. Josh and I were sleeping in this little attic part, so we woke up looking straight at the mountains. The water comes from a mountain stream and we are lacking no creature comforts. and the BEARS!!
I think we saw 7 different ones - Whenever a tour came out he let us jump in the boat and come grizzly watching. At the moment they've come out of hibernation and like to hang out on the beach munching on grass. We've got so close to them and the little ones are so cute!!! and to think we were excited at a little black bear on the side of the road a week or so ago...
We just kept looking at each other and grinning... and I don't think Salmon will ever taste as good again!!!
Josh continues:
So we found out the flooding had subsided and the road and rail out of prince rupert had been re-opened on Wednesday, but we were enjoying ourselves so much that we decided to stay on till saturday. This proved a great decision..
On the Friday there were no tours booked so Greg had us packed and up at 5am sunrise for a day of adventure. here is what we took (It all made sense later): - Day packs with personal gear for waterproof, warmth and a dry change of socks and pants, plus 1 chainsaw, 1 petrol can, 1 oil can (for chainsaw), 1 hatchet, 1 pepper spray, 1 rifle (bears), 1 set of paddles, a fishing rod and a big plastic jar (3L+) of fruit infused with Vodka, Gin and White Rum!
We jumped in his zodiac and travelled out the inlet along the coast a little and then up another inlet. When we reached the end of this inlet we unloaded all the gear and anchored the boat. The trail head consisted of and old logging road covered in fairly dense Alder regrowth. (there was no trail visible) we loaded each other up with 1-2 additional items above and greg fired up the chainsaw and cut us a trail to follow!
After a while we reached a point where the old road became clearer and the Alder less dense. A little further and both dissapeared and we were left with a wide cutting through the forrest which had been cleared as part of the logging road construction, but was all boggy, covered with moss and fern and littered with sections of roots and old tree stumps. At this point we topped the chainsaw up with fuel and oil and left the oil and petrol cans for our return trip. After following this cleared zone for a way we crossed the ridgeline.
Greg checked that the rifle worked before we headed off into the forest following an occasionally marked trail. Occasionally with bear footprints and occasionally by human means. After trekking through some boggy areas, a few clearings, and 1 slippery rockface we arrived at a lake were we found the tinnie greg had left here a number of years ago (he flew it in by helicopter during his logging days). This explained the paddles.
So we all jumped in the boat, and paddled across a small lake, through a narrow section with lots of partially submerged tree trunks which led to the larger body of water (Union Lake). Here Greg assembled the fishing line and cast in with his hook and sinker config which spun as it was reeled in. this proved to be rather successful with an enourmous rainbow trout shooting out from the shaddows to take the lure! Only to spit it out. We tried a gain a few more times without getting him to stick then slowly continued to paddle through the narrow section of lake with greg standing in the dingy casting out carefully so that his lure landed just short of the shaddowy bank or near the huge log which lay diagonally across part of the narrows. Just before we had reached the other end another even larger trout zoomed out and grabbed the lure. Greg shouting excitedly as he had in the first instance talking the fish into staying on the hook. Well after a little fight it did. And that became our lunch. A Rainbow Trout about 50cm in length?
We padddled along the big lake a short way to a sandy beach where a creek feeds into the lake. Even on this fresh water beach it was full of logs. We chopped up one of the logs and made a fire in the beach to cook the trout. Greg, Kelly and I had a swim/wade in the cold shallow lake and then spent the rest of the arvo drying off in the sun and at the fire. Once again we had fabulous weather. No clouds and in the twenties.
We just kept looking at each other and grinning... and I don't think Salmon will ever taste as good again!!!
Josh continues:
So we found out the flooding had subsided and the road and rail out of prince rupert had been re-opened on Wednesday, but we were enjoying ourselves so much that we decided to stay on till saturday. This proved a great decision..
On the Friday there were no tours booked so Greg had us packed and up at 5am sunrise for a day of adventure. here is what we took (It all made sense later): - Day packs with personal gear for waterproof, warmth and a dry change of socks and pants, plus 1 chainsaw, 1 petrol can, 1 oil can (for chainsaw), 1 hatchet, 1 pepper spray, 1 rifle (bears), 1 set of paddles, a fishing rod and a big plastic jar (3L+) of fruit infused with Vodka, Gin and White Rum!
We jumped in his zodiac and travelled out the inlet along the coast a little and then up another inlet. When we reached the end of this inlet we unloaded all the gear and anchored the boat. The trail head consisted of and old logging road covered in fairly dense Alder regrowth. (there was no trail visible) we loaded each other up with 1-2 additional items above and greg fired up the chainsaw and cut us a trail to follow!
After a while we reached a point where the old road became clearer and the Alder less dense. A little further and both dissapeared and we were left with a wide cutting through the forrest which had been cleared as part of the logging road construction, but was all boggy, covered with moss and fern and littered with sections of roots and old tree stumps. At this point we topped the chainsaw up with fuel and oil and left the oil and petrol cans for our return trip. After following this cleared zone for a way we crossed the ridgeline.
Greg checked that the rifle worked before we headed off into the forest following an occasionally marked trail. Occasionally with bear footprints and occasionally by human means. After trekking through some boggy areas, a few clearings, and 1 slippery rockface we arrived at a lake were we found the tinnie greg had left here a number of years ago (he flew it in by helicopter during his logging days). This explained the paddles.
So we all jumped in the boat, and paddled across a small lake, through a narrow section with lots of partially submerged tree trunks which led to the larger body of water (Union Lake). Here Greg assembled the fishing line and cast in with his hook and sinker config which spun as it was reeled in. this proved to be rather successful with an enourmous rainbow trout shooting out from the shaddows to take the lure! Only to spit it out. We tried a gain a few more times without getting him to stick then slowly continued to paddle through the narrow section of lake with greg standing in the dingy casting out carefully so that his lure landed just short of the shaddowy bank or near the huge log which lay diagonally across part of the narrows. Just before we had reached the other end another even larger trout zoomed out and grabbed the lure. Greg shouting excitedly as he had in the first instance talking the fish into staying on the hook. Well after a little fight it did. And that became our lunch. A Rainbow Trout about 50cm in length?
We padddled along the big lake a short way to a sandy beach where a creek feeds into the lake. Even on this fresh water beach it was full of logs. We chopped up one of the logs and made a fire in the beach to cook the trout. Greg, Kelly and I had a swim/wade in the cold shallow lake and then spent the rest of the arvo drying off in the sun and at the fire. Once again we had fabulous weather. No clouds and in the twenties.
The Trout was fabulous, and we cooked it in three different ways to campare which we preferred. 1. fillets wrapped in foil 2. small chunks on on skewers over the fire (slowly smoked) and 3. fillets layed skin down on some foil layed on the sand bank of the fire hole facing the hot coals. (It was all good, but each had a different texture / flavour) after a day roasting our food (corn and sweet potato too), drinking and sunbathing we set off back across the lake catching another trout at the narrows, stowing the boat at the lake edge, proceedng up over the saddle in the ridge, and followed the old logging road back to the boat where we found two seals and a bear nearby (a fair way further alog the shoreline)
We came back into town on Saturday after a final lunch of fresh crab, avo and mayo sandwiches and took the bear guy (greg palmer) out to dinner as he had provided for us all week. But before dinner we heard from the hostel that there was a rugby game on between prince rupert and terrace (next town inland) and they wanted me and Scottish Andy (also a traveller staying/working with greg) to play with them as they were severely short of numbers and experience. It went well. It was 10 on 10 as that was the only players available. I scored first try. But we then had the hostel manager injure himself so we lost 1 sub. Shortly another player walked off without telling us. (we went from playing 10 on 10 to 9 10 and did not realise until after the other team had screamed in 2 tries exploiting our weaknesses) .
Kelly note: You should've seen how proud the boys were of themselves!! They loved it. Although, Josh doesn't seem to be as quick as he used to on the chase!! Too many good meals perhaps??
Latest update from the Khutz: As they were heading back to the float house after dropping us off they saw 8 killer whales! Kelly and I were spewing as we really wanted to see some while we were on the west coast. It's pretty hard to see them as a visitor as they often only return to an area to feed every 10 - 14 days. Then on top of that they went out on a bear tour in the afternoon and saw a male and female beginning the courtship (takes 1 week of getting familiar before 1 - 2 weeks of mating).
We came back into town on Saturday after a final lunch of fresh crab, avo and mayo sandwiches and took the bear guy (greg palmer) out to dinner as he had provided for us all week. But before dinner we heard from the hostel that there was a rugby game on between prince rupert and terrace (next town inland) and they wanted me and Scottish Andy (also a traveller staying/working with greg) to play with them as they were severely short of numbers and experience. It went well. It was 10 on 10 as that was the only players available. I scored first try. But we then had the hostel manager injure himself so we lost 1 sub. Shortly another player walked off without telling us. (we went from playing 10 on 10 to 9 10 and did not realise until after the other team had screamed in 2 tries exploiting our weaknesses) .
Kelly note: You should've seen how proud the boys were of themselves!! They loved it. Although, Josh doesn't seem to be as quick as he used to on the chase!! Too many good meals perhaps??
Latest update from the Khutz: As they were heading back to the float house after dropping us off they saw 8 killer whales! Kelly and I were spewing as we really wanted to see some while we were on the west coast. It's pretty hard to see them as a visitor as they often only return to an area to feed every 10 - 14 days. Then on top of that they went out on a bear tour in the afternoon and saw a male and female beginning the courtship (takes 1 week of getting familiar before 1 - 2 weeks of mating).
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